Fortaleza Week 3—Running in the Street
I’ve just returned from a three-day weekend spent at Jericoacoar, a small town on the coast that’s rumored to have one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. For three days I was transformed from a sweaty, commuting 9-5 student to a sunbathing, caiprinha-drinking tourist. The beach was indeed beautiful, the drinks tasty, and the tourist experience was about as awkward as I’d expected, but I don’t feel like writing about all that. (Except to say that I agree with David Foster Wallace when he compares being a tourist to being “an insect on a dead thing.”)
Instead I feel like writing about something that’s not particularly exotic or adventurous, yet has nonetheless fascinated me as a metaphor for my experience with Brazilian vs. U.S. society thus far. Last night I went running for the first time since my arrival in Fortaleza. In my homestay neighborhood, they have a distinct running practice that I can’t stop boggling at. We live adjacent to one of the main city interstates, a six-lane monolith affectionately known as the Leste Oeste. The median for this street, at its narrowest points, is wide enough to fit four skinny abreast. There are two lanes of sidewalk, and sometimes even gym equipment and mini-playgrounds between the lanes. Instead of using the sidewalks (which are usually occupied by tables from bars, people congregating, trash piles etc), everyone jogs on the median. People use the gym equipment, too, and take their kids to the playgrounds. All this while three lanes of traffic roar by on either side (and Fortaleza traffic is a terrifying and seemingly anarchic waltz on the best of days).
It’s impossible for me to imagine public gyms and playgrounds existing literally in the middle of a six-lane street in the U.S. Forget the safety concerns that would horrify us—we also have very specific exercise preferences. We prefer air-conditioned gyms or secluded, scenic pathways; running in the city is acceptable, but we discourage anyone but the fit and pretty from doing this through catcalls, jeering, etc. And above all alse, we exercise with our headphones firmly stuck in our ears, enveloping us in a comfy sonic bubble. I myself have a lovingly edited “Running” playlist on my iPhone, and back home I run on a sweet little nature trail which allows me to avoid campus traffic, uneven sidewalks, and the sorority sisters running in packs in Chapel Hill.
So the medians of Leste Oeste: not my ideal, but it was clear that this was the only part of the neighborhood that people used for jogging. And no headphones on the street—even if I felt comfortable taking an .mp3 player with me, most Brazilians seem to jog without them. I must confess that the reason it’s taken me two and a half weeks here to work up the desire to go running was that I hated the idea of going without my music, and was afraid that without a steady beat in my ears, I wouldn’t be able to mentally sustain myself for more than a few hundred yards at best.
Running on the median was fine, of course. Maybe even better, in terms of my speed and endurance, although there’s no way for me to know since I lack the handy little GPS trackers that I used back home. But it felt good. There was a lot of ducking under palm fronds and skipping over piles of broken bricks and navigating bicycles and motorcycles and cars, and I guess all this translated to a keener awareness of myself as a physical being in the world, or something. I was very interested in looking around at my unfamiliar surroundings, so maybe that had something to do with my lack of desire for headphones; maybe I’ll miss them more when the neighborhood becomes less new to me.
But to return to the larger metaphorical point, it seems to me that running in the middle of traffic transforms the act of running from a solitary act of “inner peace” to an embrace of chaos that somehow managed to be just as peaceful as the former. I think I like it. Aside from being an incredibly efficient and impressive use of public space, there’s something about the phenomenon that seems deeply representative of my own personal, narrow and almost-certainly-ignorant-and-clueless experience of Brazilian society so far. It’s not that every Brazilian is more extroverted and friendly than Americans, although I’ve already experienced friendliness and kindness from an extraordinary number of strangers here. It’s hard to describe, but being here makes the U.S. seem delicate—delicate in our psychological needs (for personal space, for ‘alone time,’ for exactness and timeliness), in our physical needs (orderly traffic, a greater emphasis on personal safety in general), and in our social needs (a desire to be more reserved in public, a need for politeness to supercede truth in most circumstances). There are many things in Fortaleza that seem stressful to me, such as running in the street or never really knowing when my bus is going to come, but somehow it doesn’t feel like a stressful place (to me, at least).
Unfortunately I have yet to take pictures of my new outdoor gym. I haven’t been taking many pictures in general because I left the chord connecting my camera to my computer in Chapel Hill. All I have to share visually so far is an iPhone snap of the parrot that lives in my house, and a picture of my host mother (Antônia) holding her extremely adorable two-month-old granddaughter (Marcicilha). Neither of these have anything to do with running, but here they are for your perusal.








